Double knit

Double knit fabric is built on two needle beds instead of one, knitting two interlocked layers of loops that lock together face-to-face into a single, thicker cloth. Because every loop is backed by another loop rather than an open float, the fabric can't run and won't curl at a cut edge the way single jersey does — no need to fold and stitch a hem just to keep it flat. Typical double knits run 200 to 320 gsm, roughly 60% to 80% heavier than a standard 5.3 oz single-knit tee, with more crosswise stretch than lengthwise stretch.

For a decorator, that stability is the whole selling point. Pique polo knits (the mesh-textured double knit under a typical pique polo) and interlock knits (the smooth, dense fabric in babywear and premium fleece linings) both belong to this family — pull one out of the dryer and the collar or hem stays flat instead of rolling under. We've had customers hand us a curling single-jersey sample and ask for "whatever the polo shirts are made of," and the answer is always double knit.

Because the fabric is thicker and denser, it takes more heat and dwell time to fully cure plastisol or set an HTV transfer than a lightweight tee blank, and embroidery digitizing usually needs a firmer cutaway backing to keep stitches from sinking into the extra layer. Screen printers running double knit polos alongside single-jersey tees in the same job should expect to bump press time up, not treat every garment on the platen the same.

The mistake we see most is treating "knit" as one fabric with one set of rules — assuming a double-knit polo will press, stretch, and cure exactly like a jersey tee. It won't; it's a different structure, not just a different weight.